I have a High Rise Manifold, can you make a custom rod for my car?
Yes, in most instances, I can make a custom rod to fit your specific application. You must provide information such as the manifold name and number. There is a $15 surcharge to make a custom rod. Please select "YES" when placing order for the custom rod.
I have a one inch carburetor spacer plate. Is it necessary for a custom rod to be made for this application?
Yes, any additional carb spacer greater than 1/4 inch in thickness requires a custom rod because it changes the necessary "Rise" of the transmission kickdown rod.
Do either of the kickdown rod conversion kits (small block Ford OR FE) replace the entire original kickdown setup?
Yes, the rods, bellcranks, downrods and/or cable are all eliminated in favor of the uncomplicated kickdown rod that simply connects the carburetor kickdown lever to the transmission kickdown lever. There are no other brackets or accessories necessary. In some cases, you may have to modify/remove the original paraphernalia in order to allow clearance for the kickdown rod.
What does the kickdown conversion kit consist of?
The kickdown conversion kit comes with a rod with permanently installed Delrin bushings at each end, a new transmission kickdown lever made especially for the conversion kit and 2 "E" clips to retain the rod at each end to the respective levers. Adjustment instructions are also included.
Can you provide for purchase of any carburetor kickdown lever adapters needed to connect the kickdown rod at the carburetor?
No, we do not carry any of the lever adapters as they are available from the carburetor manufacturers such as Edelbrock's pt # 1483 or Quick Fuel's 49-6QFT. I also recommend obtaining our kickdown rod return spring kit if you don't have one. This simply applies slight forward/upward pull pressure on the kickdown rod. We DO carry all the transmission kickdown levers for Ford vehicles that utilize a kickdown rod.
Why is my brand new kickdown rod 2 inches short??
THIS is a very common complaint with a very easy solution, fortunately. Many installers.....even some younger mechanics who are unfamiliar with installing kickdown rods, don't understand how the kickdown rod really works. The kickdown lever on the carburetor is intended to move independently of the throttle lever and should be positioned about .500 inches (1/2 inch) from Wide Open Throttle (WOT). When the throttle lever is approaching WOT position, it contacts the kickdown lever via a throttle lever "bump arm" and pushes it back to WOT position (approximately 1/2 inch) to initiate kickdown of the transmission. The transmission kickdown lever only moves that much full travel to do the job it is intended to do. So.....to remedy the situation, connect the kickdown rod to the transmission first and then move the kickdown lever on the carb back until the bushing center connects with the 1/4" pin on the kickdown lever. Install the "E" clip retainers at each end, adjust according to the adjustment procedure sent with each rod and problem solved. In some cases some minor tweaking of the rod may be required to get it to move freely when actuated due to variable differences in every application. NOTE: Some aftermarket carburetors have the kickdown lever pinned to the throttle lever with a small screw....this screw must be removed for Ford kickdown rods. Refer to this video put out by Holley for an indepth understanding. https://youtu.be/Zv5Pw8QMOfs